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After making sure the pin was not touching anything conductive I plugged the lights back in and the light string half that did not work before now worked except for the light I bypassed with the pin.
This proved I found the faulty LED. I then unplugged the lights and began the repair. At this point I cut the wires going into the faulty LED, put on my heat shrink tube 2 tubes , soldered the wires, and shrunk the tube.
With the faulty LED light removed the light string half that did not work is now working minus 1 light. As I mentioned earlier the removal of a light will increase the current and LED's do not like high current.
I measure the current in the light string half that was not faulty and it was 9mA. Measuring the current in the light string half with the one light removed the current was 12mA.
The general upper limit for LED's is 20mA so the current level is still reasonable even with the one light removed. I am happy to say the lights are still working fine after two weeks.
Question 6 weeks ago on Introduction. I'm trying to repair the wiring for a string of 3 color changing LED spotlights, made by 'Holiday Home', that got run over by a lawn mower.
The second and third light in the string remain connected and in tact but the first light, where the input power enters the string, was severed as was the female outlet used to connect adjoining lights.
From the first light, in addition to the power in cord, are 3 more wires like common lamp cord. Where do these wires connect?
Outdoor lights can end up with water in the outer globe! This, combined with the tinned steel!! LED leads, can cause the leads to corrode over their year of storage.
I've needed to replace 8 LED's in a single string. The strings need to be dried before storage. Question 11 months ago.
I have a 60ft string of white LED Christmas lights and a small section of the lights are dimmer than the others. Approximately 30ft are good and bright then about 10ft are dim and then the other 20ft are good again.
All the bulbs are working and are very consistent in brightness including the ones that are dimmer. Any ideas on fixing them, would like to fix instead of replacing the whole thing.
Thank you. When you say LED, are you referring to the newest strings of lights out there, or just the lower wattage mini lights that have been available for a long time?
For someone who went through 2 of 5 semesters of Digital Electronics Tech 10 years ago, I have forgotten just about everything.
I saw a video a while back that said some lights have a third wire, and that wire can be snipped out without any problem.
Reply 5 years ago on Step 7. They're lower wattage than mini lights which are lower wattage than C7 and C9 incandescent bulbs which get hot to the touch.
Although the same troubleshooting method can be used for either LED or mini incandescent, since they use series circuits. When a mini light shunt fails or a bulb becomes loose, you have to find the faulty bulb the same way.
As for snipping out a third wire A typical string uses 3 wires and they're all necessary the hot wire that carries the v to the next series circuit and socket at the end of the string, one that daisy chains the bulbs for the series circuit and the return or neutral wire.
Remember to replace bulbs with the same voltage rating, 3. Reply 11 months ago. Another tip: You might expect to find the spot where you lose voltage as you move further from the plug.
But you might have it at the far end and loose it as you move towards the plug. It depends upon how you connected the non-polarized plug.
Good point. Try to find the neutal line that only attaches to the last light in the string segment and make sure its plug prong goes in the neutral side of the outlet receptacle.
It will take a bit of studying of the string and its plug if it is not a polarized plug. Tip 11 months ago. I have a bit of confusion.
I thought leds were direct current devices. Light when current flows in forward bias direction and not in reverse.
Yet you are successfully using an ac detector to find the open led. OR does the string of leds and their resistors self rectify the ac line current when the string is working, but when open the ac is detectable?
Question 12 months ago on Step 7. I have been changing colours in LED strings to illuminate a wire angel and all went well until I changed a string to Blue, bulbs started burning out.
I started with all White LEDs on 8 strings of 35 and replaced some with Yellow and Amber and all was fine, but not the blue. Could the resistance be different in the blue bulbs?
My angel is supposed to have Blue wings, Amber trumpet, Yellow halo and the rest White. What is going wrong?
Answer 11 months ago. Out of all the colors blue is the number one color I change followed by purple.
We rarely change any other colors, with white, yellow, and red being the least changed colors. Question 2 years ago on Step 7.
In the example, when the faulty led was found, it was not replaced, it was "cut out" and bypassed. Can't one simply put in a "good" led to fix the problem?
Answer 12 months ago. Question 1 year ago. I have 3 strings of lights hooked together. The last string and half of the previous string are working but the first string that is plugged in and half the second string are not working.
Cant figure this one out. A string of lights typically has two parallel circuits and the power is carried through from one end to the other.
On my string the voltage between the LED and the common is 3V. The Voltage detector spec for the ones is see on line are between 50v to v or 12v to v.
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